The Lenox Garden Club

AUGUST 2011

ENTERING HORTICULTURE IN THE FLOWER SHOW
CHOOSING PLANT MATERIAL:  well-grown, well-groomed plants

Read the schedule carefully noting the rules and policies
Know the procedure for correct botanical names (see accompanying article)
Specimens should be prime maturity, peak of perfection
Substance should be firm, turgid, color fresh and pure
Stem and foliage should be firm and in proportion to the specimen
The quality of flowers, fruit or cones should be ideal for the specimen
Specimen should be free of dust, blemishes and insects

CONDITIONING PLANT MATERIAL
Cut specimens the day before the show in the early morning or late afternoon.
Place in tepid water in a cool dark place.
The day of the show remove spent blossoms and any unnecessary or damaged foliage.
Check for insects, brush away any dust, including the undersides of leaves.
When entering, make sure there is no foliage below the waterline
Wedge plant inconspicuously for optimum “pose” 
       
Repot container grown plants a week ahead of the show.
Container should be a neutral color, clean and appropriate in size to the plant
Double potting and topdressing are permitted unless prohibited by the schedule.
Finally, groom and inconspicuously stake plants if necessary.

Jacqueline Connell

SPECIAL JULY 2011

Water Garden Care
•           Clear pond water can be achieved with proper plant balance. If the pond is in full sun, 50-70% of its surface must be covered with foliage such as Floating Heart, Water Hyacinth, Water Poppy, Water Lily, or Lotus.
 •           Underwater grasses are essential to maintaining water clarity as they utilize the oxygen in the water, which helps prevent algae from accumulating in the pond. Following are some easy guidelines to know when trying to figure out how many grasses are needed:
 •           1 clump of grass per 1 sq. ft. of surface area for ponds less than 25 sq. ft.
•           1 clump of grass per 2 sq. ft. of surface area for ponds greater than 25 sq. ft.
•           Time to fertilize all Water Lilies and Lotus once a month to keep the plant blooming continuously throughout the season.
 •           Lotus are great plants for container water gardens on a deck or patio. Whiskey barrels make a perfect container for these types of water gardens.
 •           Tropical Water Lilies make a spectacular show of color for any water garden. Whereas hardy Water Lilies bloom only during the day, tropical varieties, which are considered annuals in this area, include day and night bloomers. This makes it possible to enjoy the bloom in the late afternoon and evening. Day blooming tropical Water Lilies bloom heavier than hardy lilies. The flowers stay open longer each day and they bloom much later into the season. Night blooming tropical water lilies open their flowers at approximately 5 pm and do not close until the following morning around 9 am. This is perfect timing for those evening barbecues and parties.

JUNE 2011

The BUZZ: from Googie Emmet
Mark Your Calendars for the Great Bee Count on July 16th! Sat, 05/07/2011
Greetings citizen scientists! I know that some of you who live in warmer climates are already sending in your 15 minute observations and others will be doing so throughout the year.This year, however, we would like everyone - even those of you who haven’t sent in observations – to make the effort to join the Great Bee Count of 2011 on July 16th. The best way to sample is to sample every other week but if you only count bees once this year, make it on July 16. More info at: www.greatsunflower.org

ASIAN LONGHORNED BEETLE
The Asian Longhorned Beetle (anoplophora glabripennis) or ABL is an invasive pest from Asia that came to the US concealed in solid wood packing material, pallets and crates used to transport goods from overseas. This insect is a serious threat the many species of deciduous hardwood ( all species of maple, elm, willow, birch, horse chestnut, ash and poplar).  The ALB bores deep into a tree’s hardwood.  This tunneling eventually kills the tree.  The ALB threatens shade trees, recreational and forest resources and various industries.

Adult ALB is a large distinctive looking insect measuring  1 to 1.5 inches long, not including its antennae. These antennae are as long as the body in females and twice as long in males.  The body is shiny black with white spots; the antennae are banded in black and white.  During the summer months adult beetles can be spotted on walls, outdoor furniture, tree limbs and branches.

To report sightings of ALB or for more information  go to www.aphis.usda.gov/contact_us/ppq.shtml or call the ALB Program 508-799-8330 or 866-702-9938

Lifecycle of the ALB
The Asian Longhorned Beetle (ALB) spends most of its life as a larva inside a hardwood tree. The adult female ALB chews a depression or egg site into the bark and lays a single egg beneath the bark. Egg sites are visible on the bark of the tree. They can be oval or round in shape or small slits depending on the tree species and thickness of the bark. With a lifespan of 14-66 days, a female ALB can lay 30-60 eggs in her lifetime.

When the larva emerges from the egg, it initially feeds on the tree’s living tissue directly beneath the bark. The mature larva moves deep into the tree and feeds on the woody tissue. This feeding and burrowing causes the tree to weaken and eventually die. The larva becomes a pupa inside the tree.

About one year after the egg was laid, the adult beetle breaks out of its pupal casing and chews its way out of the tree, creating perfectly round exit holes that are about 3/8” in diameter. Adult beetles emerge in July and August. They feed on leaves and small twigs and then mate, continuing the life cycle with the female beetles laying more eggs in the tree. Female beetles tend to lay eggs on the same tree every year until the tree dies.

Spot the Beetle. Stop the Beetle
One of the most important ways you can help stop the ALB is to look for it and report it. Adult beetles are most active during the summer and early fall. They can be seen on trees, branches, walls, outdoor furniture, cars, and sidewalks. While the ALB may appear threatening, it is harmless to humans and pets. With these unique characteristics, it’s easy to identify the ALB:   1 to 1 ½ inches in length.  Long antennae banded in black and white (longer than the insect’s body) Shiny, jet black body with distinctive white spots Six legs - May have blue color on feet

Favorites trees of the ALB
Ash, Birches, Elm, European Mountain Ash, Hackberry, Horse Chestnut, London Planetree, Maple, Mimosa, Poplars, Willow and Katsura.

Signs of Infestation
While it can fly, the beetle tends to lay eggs in the same tree from which it emerged as an adult. The eggs hatch and the larvae burrow and feed just under the bark. By the late summer and fall, the caterpillar-like larva tunnels deep into the tree. The following summer, the ALB drills its way out of the tree as a mature beetle. It bores through the tissues that carry water and nutrients throughout the tree, eventually starving and killing it. In addition to looking for the beetle, you can search for signs of infestation, including: Shallow divots in the bark where the eggs are laid and sap seeps from wounds in the tree. Dime-sized  (1/4” or larger), perfectly round exit holes in the tree .Sawdust-like materials, called frass, on the ground or on the branches.

 APRIL 2011

“Gear-Up for the Garden and Prepare to Prune in Lilac Park!”
Caligari’s Store in lenox is offering LGC members 50%off a pair of garden gloves.  Get your pair today....  Let’s see a show of brightly colored gloved-hands at The Lilac Park Clean Up Day!  Many thanks to Calligari’s!
Margaret Lindenmaier

MARCH 2011

The Flower Show Committee would like to see all LGC members participate in the Then and Now Flower Show. Buy a plant before March 15, 2011 to qualify for the six month ownership and you too can enter. Full details in our flower show schedule on the LGC web site. If you have questions: Call MaryEllen at 413-229-3025 or Email: maryellenjobrien@hotmail.com

FEBRUARY 2011

This is the perfect time of the year to do some serious pruning of certain shrubs and trees. When the newly shaped specimens bud out in the spring you'll be very happy you spent that cold afternoon outdoors in February! Almost all woody shrubs benefit from trimming every three years. Trees and shrubs that flower in early spring should be pruned immediately after flowering. But, trees and shrubs that flower in the summer or fall always should be pruned during this dormant season. With the BBG Winter lecture in mind, if you are interested in the  how-to, check out Margaret Roach's website in reference to this subject at:
http://awaytogarden.com/pondering-a-bout-of-mid-winter-pruning
Barb May

DECEMBER 2010

How did your garden look this fall?  We seem to have longer autumns with frosts coming later and so let’s take a look at a few of the many plants that can make the garden look better longer.

Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’ sports long-flowering white flowers that are frost-resistant and especially effective against a dark green background.  There is also a pink-flowered variety.  The plants take a few years to really settle in and then will gently spread.

Colchicums are fall-blooming bulbs beginning in September with large lavender to hot-pink tulip-like flowers that are spectacular growing in a vinca bed or at the front of a border.  David Burdick has an especially good variety.

Hydrangea quercifolia,(oak-leaf hydrangea) a native shrub, has large white flower trusses in July and its foliage turns a rich, dusky purple and, depending on the variety, often a good cherry red.

Holly (ilex meservae hybrids) are evergreen and bear red berries effective all fall and winter.  Remember: you need one male plant for these shrubs are dioecious.  They can be pruned to almost any size and even if the deer nibble at them, they do recover.

Viburnum nudum ‘Winterthur’ is a large shrub (with time) that bears white flowers in June, and wonderful fruits that start out white in late August, then change to a  lovely dark pink and finally to blue.  Often you get all three colors at once.  This shrub looks especially good in fall with:

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’.  Limelight’s flowers are white with a green tinge in August.  Then, with the first cool nights, the flowers turn russet-pink.

NOVEMBER 2010

Dahlia Care
Dig up the Dahlia Bulb in Fall
Dahlia tubers are not hardy, and must be adequately protected from winter frost, if you want them to produce blooms again. The best time to dig up the dahlia bulb is in the fall, after the first frost of the season has started affecting the leaves of the plant. If you dig out the tubers any earlier, they may still be green, and susceptible to rot. Leaving them in the ground longer will result in frozen, unusable tubers. Cut the plant down and use a garden fork to dig the soil at a distance of about one foot all around the plant. Dig deeply, to about one foot depth, so that the soil is loose and the plant can easily be pried out.
Prepare the Dahlia Bulb for Storage
After you gently dig out the dahlia bulb, carefully remove the excess soil around the tubers. With the garden hose, gently wash the dahlia bulb. It is advisable to divide the tubers before storing them. If you store the whole bulb as it is, you will lose all the tu­bers if the bulb rots during storage.
Divide the Dahlia Bulb
The dahlia bulb consists of several tubers. The plant and flowers are developed from the eyes on the tuber. First, store the healthiest tubers that have eyes. The “mother” tuber is the central tuber from which the plant sprouted this year. It is best discarded, even if it looks healthy and has eyes. Use a sharp, sterilized knife to cut out the tubers. Make sure that each division includes a portion of the stem, with no excess parts that will induce rotting.
Store the Tubers
Keep the tubers in a dark, cool, frost-free, ventilated environment. You can keep around six tubers in a pierced plastic bag. Add some peat or shredded paper, which will absorb excess moisture. Keep the bag covered in a container. Regularly check on the tubers for signs of dryness or rotting. Rotting tubers must be promptly discarded. Do not let the tubers dry out and die, a small sprinkling of water is enough to provide required moisture.

READ more at: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/dahlia-bulbs-and-tubers--planting-and-care

OCTOBER 2010

GOURDS are members of the cucumber family (Cucurbita Pepo Ovifera),the yellow-flowered gourd grown in the north­east. They should be fully ripened on the vine and cut off with a few inches of stem. Gourds are brought in after cutting and washed with a mild disin­fectant and then dried. They can be waxed with any floor paste wax.
Good Luck, Sue Dunlaevy

GOURD CRAFTS
Interesting Websites:
PURCHASE DRIED GOURDS
http://www.amishgourds.com/
http://www.wuertzfarm.com/Gourds.html
BOOKS ON GOURDS CRAFTS
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Book-Gourd-Craft-Inspirational/dp/1887374558#
INTERESTINGS IDEA & DESIGN PICS
http://www.contemporaryartifacts.com/index.html

SEPTEMBER 2010

POLLINATOR GARDEN
Hummingbirds, bees, wasps, butterflies, moths and all the pollinators search for and thrive on flower nectar and pollen.  Native plants should always be your first choice when creating a pollinator garden.  Make sure that you garden site receives plenty of sun at least 5-6 hours and your garden has a water source.  Many pollinators such as butterflies like to gather sips from mud puddles, and birdbaths.
Use as many native plants as possible…many of the pollinators depend on native plants for their very existence.

Consider planting these:
Wild Columbine, Purple Butterflyweed, Purple Milkweed, New York Aster, Boneset, Purple Joe-Pye, Wild Bee Balm, Black-eyed Susan,and Goldenrod

A complete list of available native plants maybe seen at:
http://www.projectnative.org/pages/plants.html

Project Native
413-274-3433 or
email projectnative@verizon.net.

GARDEN SHOP
342 North Plain Road (Rte. 41)
Housatonic, MA 01236
Just 4 miles north of Great Barrington, Massachusetts.

OPEN
Thursday- Tuesday (Closed Wednesday)
APRIL - OCTOBER

AUGUST 2010

LAMB'S EARS AVAILABLE
The Hort Committee wants to find your unneeded plants a new home, and hopes to bring you some plants you’ve yearned for. We’ll try to have an offering in each newsletter.  Let me, or MaryEllen, know what you have to offer or want.  For example, this month, I have a quantity of Stachys byzantina ‘Helene Von Stein’ (common name Lambs Ears). Helene is a choice plant, well behaved with fuzzy silver grey leaves. She grows well in most soils, in full sun to about 10 inches.  She doesn’t blossom like the common lambs ears and stays neat looking throughout the summer.  Call me for the details and I will even dig them for you. Please call 413-637-0451 or email at:  susandana@roadrunner.com.
Susan Dana
Hort Chair

Stachys byzantina
(syn.Lamb’s-ear or Lamb’s Ear) is a species of Stachys, native to Turkey, Armenia, and Iran.  It is cultivated over much of the temperate world as an ornamental plant, and is naturalised in some locations as an escape from gardens. Plants are very often found under the synonym Stachys lanata or Stachys olympica.
 Lamb’s Ear flowers in late spring and early summer, plants produce tall spike-like stems with a few reduced leaves. The flowers are small and either white or pink. The plants tend to be evergreen but can “die” back during cold winters and regenerate new growth from the crowns. In warmer climates they may grow year-round, but suffer where it’s hot and humid. They are easy to grow, preferring partial shade to full sunlight and well-drained soils not rich in nitrogen.
From:
Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stachys_byzantina

JULY 2010

RED LILY BEETLE
In order to take control of the Red Lily Beetle, you need to know your adversary.
STEP 1 IDENTIFY
The red or scarlet lily beetle (Lilioceris lilii) is a leaf eating insect. They will also consume stems and buds of lilies both Asiatic and Oriental, along with fritillia species. You must properly identify the bug. The Red Lily Beetle (3/8 - 1/2 “). Is bright scarlet color the large abdominal area and the small thorax with black legs and antennae.
STEP 2 MONITOR
Once you have identified the adult pest, you should begin to check all your lilies for insects,
larvae and eggs. The eggs are small, laid in clusters and orange in color and generally found on the bottom sides of the affected plant leaves. Larvae are more difficult to spot. Initially they may only appear as insect droppings. The young larvae have voracious appetites for your lilies and use there waste to cover their bodies to make themselves unappealing to predators. They can decimate a lily plant in no time. The larvae grow and eventually fall to the earth where the will pupate for 2-3 week. Adults emerge and for sev­eral weeks will mate, lay eggs (female beetles can lay as many as 450 eggs each)and keep the cyclical process in motion.
STEP 3 TAKE ACTION
Daily inspection is best. Crush adult beetles; lar­vae can be wiped off leaves with a damp paper towel and disposed of properly. Insecticidal soap may be applied. Vigilance and manual removal will pay off. According to the on line resource, Wikipedia, “University of Rhode Island experimented with re­lease of European parasitoid wasp, Tetrastichus setifer, in Massachusetts from 1999 to 2001 to control for the lily leaf beetle population. The experiment had shown reduction of the beetle population. Population decline was also observed at another experiment site in Rhode Island. In 2003, another parasitoid, Lemophagus errabun­dus, was also released in Massachusetts and is now established in the region. Similar attempts of parasitoid release have been made in Boston with positive results”.

JUNE 2010

Fertilizing Potted Veggies Early to bed, early to rise; Work like hell: fertilize. ~Emily Whaley

I. A BIT OF BACKGROUND
If you are not familiar with how to buy fertilizer, here is a quick tutorial on what you are looking for.
There are 3 numbers on the front of every bag or bottle of fertilizer.
They are always in the same order and stand for the percentage by weight of the N-P-K or Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium contained the fertilizer.
Each is necessary for healthy plant growth and development.
For example: First number represents (N) Nitrogen = overall plant health.
Second number represents (P) Phosphorous = root maker
Third number (K) Potassium = Stem growth/overall plant vigor.

II. ROADMAP
1- Decide which type of fertilizer to use on which plants. Recommended is using 5-10-10 fertilizer for beans, broccoli, celery, peas, peppers, squash and tomatoes.
2- Also recommended is 10-10-10 fertilizer for spinach, onions, lettuce , Chinese cabbage.
Buy one or both types of fertilizer depending on the veggie selection.
3. “National Gardening Assoc. recommends fertilizing most types of vegetables about once every three weeks, although onions and rhubarb only need fertilizer once a year. Spinach usually only requires fertilizer when it is first planted.
Amount of fertilizer varies, so rule of thumb, when they are growing slowly, fertilize more… and less when they seem to be growing quickly.

III. MISCELLANEOUS TIPS
A) WATERING – The frequent watering necessary to keep the soil moist in the pot, but washes out the nutrients, so container vegetables must be fertilized on a regular schedule to replenish the
nutrients.
B) ORGANIC VS CHEMICAL- When adding fertilizer to potted plants use organic blends.
Organic fertilizers are just as effective as chemicals, will not burn, and they supply the required
macronutrients plus a large amt of minerals.
a) It is a good idea to water and fertilize vegetables at the base of the plant rather than pouring or fertilizer solution over the entire plant. This type of watering prevents fungi problems.
b) Using leaf mold (last years leaves) should be put at the bottom of the pot. It really retains the water and is a good mulch base.
C . POTTING MIX - Do not use 100% garden soil (often clay soil) which is too heavy, dense, and compact. It dries out rapidly, may be too acid or too alkaline, and may contain fungal pathogens, weed seeds and disease organisms.
a) SOILLESS MIX (eg. Jiffy Mix, Bacto, Promix). These mixes are made up of peat moss, vermiculite and either course sand or wood products. Vermiculite holds several times its weight in water and nutrients, and keeps container mixes moist. The soilless mixes are lightweight and may be the best choice if the container is to me moved frequently.
b) SOIL MIX is often made up of one part sphagnum peat moss or compost, one part pasteurized soil, one part vermiculite or perlite, and some composted cow manure. Soil tend to hold wa­ter better than soilless mixes.
D) How many of you are familiar with Soil Moist? Soil moist is made of plastic. Therefore, you may wish to consider this fact before using it.
For a tomato plant, plant a fish under it… it is full of most of the nutrients necessary for healthy tomatoes.
Don’t throw out bananas. Bury them deep.. Great source for Potassium, Phosphorous, and some Nitrogen.
Submitted by, Jeanie Fenn

MAY 2010

Chocolate and Honey – Dessert in the Garden
How tantalizing are those first days of Spring in New England.  One day we are whipped by icy winds and rain or snow and the next we are taking off layers and basking in sunshine.  As soon as the snow has melted and the earth softens we rush to see what little green miracles are pushing up in secret places.

One of the sweetest early harbingers is genus Leuocjum in the family Amayllidaceae (what a mouthful).  Leucojum is a genus of about ten species of bulbous perennials which thrive in a variety of habitats from woodlands, shaded hillsides, wet areas, dunes and rocky grasslands.  Leucojum vernum (Spring snowflake) has erect, strap shaped glossy dark green leaves to 10”.  In early spring it produces thick, leafless stems with usually one, sometimes two, bell-shaped green tipped white flowers 1” long.  The bulbs, planted in autumn, are hardy in zones 4-8.

A later, more robust variety is the Summer Snowflake (Leuocjum Aestivum).  This larger bulbous perennial also has glossy, strap-shaped dark green leaves to 16”.   In spring, leafless stems bear up to 8 bell-shaped, white flowers faintly chocolate-scented. (Yum, think of white chocolate) They are ¾” long with white tips.

Gravetye Giant is a robust variety thriving in zones 3-9 in full sun to partial shade in rich moist soil.  It is critter proof and moisture-tolerant with a long-lasting flower.  It’s hanging white bells begin blooming in early spring and continue for many weeks.  It blooms in a sunny flower border as well as in a damp, shady spot.  When it is happy it spreads itself around, but, both Leucojum Aestivum and Leucojum Vernum need reliably moist, humus-rich soil.

Other sweet late winter to early spring bulb is the Snowdrop of the genus Galanthus, also in the family Amaryllidaceae.  One article I read states that the best time to plant Snowdrops is in the early spring when the leaves of these bulbs are still green but the flowers have finished.  This is known as “planting in the green.”  The February flowing Galanthus “S. Arnott” is a vigorous bulbous perennial with large (1-1 ½”) honey scented white flowers with an erect stem and
splayed gray-green leaves.  Like all Snowdrops it favors well drained, humus rich soil and a shady location.With the fragrances of chocolate and honey in early spring both our eyes and olfactory senses are blessed.

Submitted by Wendy Philbrook

APRIL 2010

April is the ideal time to think about bulbs for next spring. Keep an eye out for the places where the snow melts first on your property preferably from your house windows. Usually, south-facing slopes or other protected spots where the sun strikes boldly are the best. Don’t worry if these spots are shaded in summer. The bulb foliage will have ripened by the time the tree or shrub leaves unfold.

MARCH 2010

Book Review:
The Life Cycles of Butterflies
From Egg to Maturity, a Visual Guide to 23 Common Garden Butterflies
By Judy Burris & Wayne Richards,
Storey Publishing, 2006
ISBN 978-1-58017-617-0 (paperback)

Butterfly lovers of all ages will mesmerized by the spectacular photos in The Life Cycles of Butterflies.  The authors, sister and brother team, Judy Burris and Wayne Richards have been captivated by butterflies since they were children.  Instead of collecting them in nets or peeling them off truck radiators as they did back then, today they catch them in photos.
In exquisite detail with amazing close-ups and clear readable text, the authors chronicle all the stages of 23 common species as they may appear in your garden. Butterflies undergo complete metamorphosis progressing from egg to caterpillar to chrysalis in a few weeks, “a rare and wonderful achievement.”  And each stage may have several stages—a tiger swallowtail caterpillar changes from brown and white to grayish green to bright leaf green and back to brown before it even develops its chrysalis.  Seeing that caterpillar munching your sweet bay magnolia you may forget that left alone it will develop into a spectacular male butterfly yellow with black stripes or a female, sometimes brown with iridescent blue splotches.
Each of the butterfly species is presented in photos with informative descriptions and profiled in field notes as to its breeding ranges, its wingspan, life cycle season and its preferred host and nectar plants.  Gardeners will also find the chapter on “Butterfly Habitat Gardening” extremely helpful in establishing their own backyard paradises and attracting these magical, honored guests.
Jacqueline Connell
LGC Horticulture Committee

FEBRUARY 2010

Looking for the ultimate companion to sit in front of the fire place with you on these cold dark February nights? With Valentine's Day fast approaching, consider getting your hands on this hunk of a book! The American Horticultural Society A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants, (Brickell, Zuk. ISBN 0-7894-1943-2) is a New York Times Best Seller and rightfully so. For me, it was love at first sight.
Stay curled up at home and find it on Amazon.com or venture off to Borders for a gardeners play date in the stacks. Either way, be sure to treat yourself to a gift that promotes the growth of your "inner gardener" NOW.
Margaret Lindenmaier

JANUARY 2010

Arm Chair Gardening...Catalogs on line
Google Seed Catalogs and see what's available:

DECEMBER 2009

Wreaths from Native Plants
Late November and early December are the perfect time to make a holiday wreath constructed from native plant material.  When collecting a few rules to remember.  Start collecting greens by pruning your own evergreen trees.  If you don’t have many good candidates on hand, think about planting several in the spring so you can provide your own collection of greens.  Conifers to consider that create varied texture and color include Pinus strobus (Eastern White Pine) abundant, local and can often be found as windfalls, Juniperus virginiana, (Eastern Red Cedar), actually a juniper with wonderful blue cones (berries) brownish green textured foliage, and the beautiful Tsuga canadensis (Eastern Hemlock) with cute miniature cones lovely soft forest green foliage.  These suggestions should provide a background of greens that vary in texture, color and fragrance.  When constructing your wreath, start with a commercially made evergreen wreath that you purchase from the local garden center.  This will minimize the amount of material that you need to collect.  These native greens will enhance the traditional balsam wreath with texture, color and will give your wreath a natural and native look. Next…Embellish your wreath with additional nuts, berries and dried plant material.  For the red accents on your wreath consider Ilex verticillata (Winterberry), Rhus typhina (Staghorn Sumac) and Cornus sericea (Redtwig Dogwood).  These berries, fruiting bodies and twigs have various shades of red, and add interesting shape and structure.  For brown accents (remember brown is a color, too!) consider the fern seed fronds of Matteuccia struthiopteris, Onoclea sensibilis (Ostrich and Sensitive ferns), seed pods from Asclepias (Milkweed), cones from pines and even a turkey tail shelf fungus add character to a wreath.  A nice finishing touch is a broad leaf evergreen especially Kalmia (Mountain Laurel).  Never harvest Kalmia from the wild, just purchase it from the local garden center.
Have Fun!
Akki Martens

NOVEMBER 2009

Martagons:  Plant the bulbs now for gorgeous show in June
by: Martha Erwin-Booth

Martagon lily, also referred to as Turk’s cap lily, have been in cultivation since 1596, and originate in Eurasia, with lots of color and height variations along the way.  The individual blooms aren’t gigantic like modern hybrids, but there are many of them on a stem, often 12 to 15.  Stems can rise from four feet up to head height.
The best thing about martagon is their adaptability.  They are wonderful in a sunny flower bed or in a woodsy-looking shade garden.  They do need good filtered light so they bloom well,  not suited for deep shade.  The whorled leaves that ring the stem at regular intervals are beautiful and they are sturdy as well.  The martagons work especially well among both shrubs and other perennials.

OCTOBER 2009

Small Trees and Shrubs that are Colorful Throughout the Seasons
by Helen Davies

This is an ideal time of year to plant shrubs and small trees.  There are many reasons to select a particular shrub or small tree - they are the right size for a particular location, have beautiful flowers, have leaves that are attractive throughout spring, summer and fall and are disease resistant. Those that have beautiful berries and attract birds make them especially desirable.    Now that it is mid-September, I am looking at one small tree and three shrubs that fit the bill.

The Kousa Dogwood tree, Cornus Kousa has beautiful white flowers in the spring.  The dense foliage in the summer provides an ideal nesting spot for birds.  We had a nest of cardinals this year.  We could not see the nest but we saw the parents flying in and out of the tree for weeks until the babies were able to fly away.  Now the tree has dramatic red, spiky spheres of fruit the size of large raspberries.  The shiny, dark green leaves will soon turn red to maroon.   

Vibernum , particularly the dilitatum species, is another three-season winner.  We have three cultivars of this species that date back to the 1970’s.  They all have beautiful white flowers in the spring, similar to the hydrangea, handsome leaves throughout the summer and beautiful red berries in late summer.   The leaves turn spectacular colors in the fall and are disease resistant.

·         ‘Erie’ has conspicuous red berries that droop and turn coral-pink by winter, and thick, medium green leaves that turn an incredible shade of red, orange and yellow in the early Fall.

·         ‘Iroquois’  is known for its exceptional foliage and fruit.  The leaves are thick, leathery and dark green in the summer, turning orange red to maroon in the fall.  It has bright red berries.

·         ‘Catskill’  is a dwarf with compact growth, has berries similar in color and size to the ‘Iroquois’, dark, glossy green leaves that are thinner and more rounded than the ‘Iroquois’ and which turn a blend of yellow, orange and red in the fall.

You can’t go wrong with any of these shrubs.  You will have beautiful and interesting displays of flowers, leaves and berries from spring into early winter.

OCTOBER 2009

Garlic planting Instructions from:
http://www.veggiegardeningtips.com/how-to-plant-fall-garlic/

Start by Selecting Good Quality Garlic Seed Heads
You’ll find it much cheaper to plant your own garlic, and fortunately this vegetable is easy to grow, requires very little care, and is virtually untouched by insect pests. The perfect crop, even for beginner gardeners!
The timing of your fall planting is critical. Your objective is to time the fall garlic plantings so that the cloves have a few weeks to establish good root development before freezing weather conditions set in. Yet you don’t want to plant the garlic seed so early that the seed cloves have time to send up above ground leaf shoots before cold temperatures halt the plant’s growth.
A good rule of thumb is to plant the garlic seed about four to six weeks before the ground is subject to freezing in your growing region. Plant the garlic in a prepared raised bed that has been loosened and had a layer of compost, mushroom soil, or an organic fertilizer incorporated into it.

SEPTEMBER 2009
by MaryEllen O'Brien

Now is the time
to think about moving your houseplants indoors for the cooler weather is ahead of us.
1. Clear and ready a space in your home for the returning plants.
2.  Make sure that you have an adequate supply of new clean pots for those that will need to be transplanted.
3. Bring in your houseplants before outside night temperatures dip into the mid 40’s.  Most tropical plants will suffer damages in temps below 40 degrees.
4. Inspect plants for insects and disease.  Check the outside of the pots for pests and if snails and earthworms have gained entrance you may want to repot your plant.
5. Trim plants as needed.  This may be an opportunity to take cuttings and start new annual plants for instance…Geraniums and Coleus.
6. To prevent your plant from the shock of the move indoors reduce the amount of light it receives prior to moving it inside.  Place it in a shady porch to accustom its place indoors.
7.  Don’t over-water your plants when they return inside.  They will require less water since they will be receiving less sunshine.
8.  Lastly, your plants will love a shot of fertilizer.  Follow product instructions for best results.  Soil containing fertilizers will not need to be fed again for 3-4 months after their transplant.

AUGUST 2009

Late Blight on Tomato and Potatoes
forwarded from Carolyn King

Garden retailers and landscapers should be aware of
Late Blight caused by the fungus Phytophthora
infestans – a very destructive and very infectious
disease that kills tomato and potato plants in gardens
and on commercial farms in the eastern U.S. Late blight
is the same disease that caused the Irish Potato Famine
in the 1840s. It has been in the US for over a century,
but it has never occurred this early and this widespread.
It not only threatens home gardens, but also the
thousands of acres of commercial potatoes and tomatoes
that are grown in Massachusetts and across New England.
The disease has been diagnosed on tomato transplants
throughout the Northeast. Infected plants were distributed
throughout the region by several plant retailers this spring.
It is believed that the pathogen is not seed borne however,
it is exceptionally contagious, and can spread to tomato
plants on retail shelves not involved in the original and
initial source of the inoculum. Humans cannot get sick
from eating fruit or tubers frominfected plants.
Late blight, affects both potato and tomato crops. It
produces spores very rapidly and these move very
easily from one garden or field to others, because
the spores are easily carried in wind currents to infect
susceptible plants in even the most remote area in our
region. All tomato and potato plants grown in home
gardens and in commercial fields are susceptible to
late blight! The most common early symptoms on
tomato transplants are brown lesions on stems, with
white fungal growth developing under moist conditions.
Symptoms appear as large (at least nickel-sized) olive-
green to brown spots on leaves with slightly fuzzy white
fungal growth on the underside when conditions have
been humid or wet. Sometimes the lesion border is
yellow or has a watersoaked appearance. Leaf lesions
begin as tiny, irregularly shaped brown spots.  Brown
to blackish lesions also develop on upper stems. Firm,
brown spots develop on tomato fruit. Late blight can be
confused with early blight and Septoria leaf spot, two
common diseases found in home gardens. If the lesion
has a yellow border and is occurring on the bottom of the
plant, it is likely due to infection of either early blight or
Septoria leaf spot.
Photo gallery of what to look for:
http://www.hort.cornell.edu/department/Facilities/lihrec/
vegpath/photos/lateblight_tomato.htm
http://blogs.cornell.edu/hort/2009/06/26/late-blight-a-
serious-disease-killing-tomatoes-andpotatoes-this-year/

 To confirm a diagnosis contact the University of
Massachusetts Plant Diagnostic Laboratory,
(413) 545-3208 or see
http://www.umass.edu/agland/diagnostics/index.html.
There is a $50 fee for lab diagnostics.

Management
If symptoms are already appearing on plants, remove
plants, place in a plastic bag, seal and discard in the
trash or completely bury plants deep enough under
ground so plants decompose and will not re-sprout.
Do not put the plants in a compost pile as spores will
still spread from this debris. To manage late blight
with fungicides, treat before symptoms appear. Use
a product that contains chlorothalonil listed as the
active ingredient on the label. There are ready- to- use
formulations available. Fungicides are only effective if
used before the disease appears and should be
reapplied every 5-7 days if wet weather persists.
Chlorothalonil is a protectant fungicide, with no systemic
movement in the plant, so thorough coverage is necessary.
For organic farmers and gardeners, the options are very
limited, since only copper fungicides can be used, and
copper is not very effective on late blight. Even with fungicide
applied every week, there is no guarantee of success,
especially if the rainy weather continues. For more
information, see: http://www.umassvegetable.org/index.html

JULY 2009

Things to look forward to on our Garden and House Tour!  Maria Nation’s Good Dog Farm features a robust perennial boarder. Echinacea, Canna, Lilium, Iris, Solidago, and Ligularia are among some of the wonderful plants that you will see as you tour her garden. Bring your handy pocket guide because there will more to look up as you stroll her wonderful property!

JUNE 2009

This newsletter (The link below) is issued by the UMass Extension. It  used to be by subscription only, now it is free. LGC members need only to bookmark the link to be connected and to see very important state data.
http://umassgreeninfo.org/landscape_message/lm_welcome.html
 The LANDSCAPE MESSAGE helps Master Gardeners and others identify pests in the landscape, become aware of their development, and offer management strategies.
 Each LANDSCAPE MESSAGE includes valuable information from sites throughout Massachusetts: growing degree day accumulation, soil temperature, precipitation amounts, and plant phenology. Detailed reports on the status of insects, diseases, and weeds are featured in each edition.
 UMass Extension Landscape/Nursery/Urban Forestry Program
French Hall, 230 Stockbridge Rd., Amherst, MA 01003
Tel. (413) 545-2685- Fax. (413) 577-1620
www.UMassGreenInfo.org

MAY 2009

Have you ever heard the Police term….APB or BOLO?
Well there is an All Points Bulletin….. Be On the Look Out for these pesty insects.
Winter Moth flight last November/December was substantially more prevalent than it has been in Massachusetts for several years.  This is a strong indicator that the numbers of caterpillars this spring will be up considerably for the first time in 3 years, and serious damage to trees, apple crops, and blueberries may occur.  Winter moth caterpillars hatch early (approximately 20–50 GDD or about mid April) and wriggle into swelling buds where they feed and harm leaf and flower buds.  Dormant oil sprays for fruit tree crops (apple, blueberry) may be prudent.  Once the foliage is open, these caterpillars then feed freely and can be managed with Bacillus thuringiensis Kurstaki (B.t.K.), while they are still small, OR with a product that contains spinosad, OR with a registered pyrethroid product.
www.umassgreeninfo.org/fact_sheets/defoliators/winter_moth.pdf
http://www.umassgreeninfo.org/fact_sheets/defoliators/wm_id_man.html
http://www.hort.uconn.edu/Ipm/general/biocntrl/wintermoth.htm
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winter_Moth
Hemlock Woolly Adelgid (HWA) is rebounding from the significant winter mortality it experienced in 2005 in Massachusetts.  Monitor for the new egg masses that are appearing now.  Once the weather is conducive to apply dormant oils, take advantage of this option where the numbers of HWA are increasing.  Later, HWA can be managed with oil sprays at the summer rate OR with systemic applications of imidacloprid.
Submitted by,
Carolyn King

APRIL 2009

Hort Short... AHHHH...SPRINGTIME
March is an Ideal Month to Transplant House Plants 
As we become impatient to dig in our gardens outside, March is an ideal time to dig in the dirt inside.  If your houseplants have been in the same pot for several years, are root bound, or in soil that smells moldy (J. Lynn Cutts, PhD, HomeownerNet Columnist), since plants are semi dormant in winter, March is a great time to give them fresh soil and a clean home.  This will also save you time in the Spring when most of us are extremely busy cleaning up and planting our outside gardens 

LGC Peach Tree Project Proposal
Initiative to help GCA celebrate 100 years
The project will educate our members on peach tree cultivation, using an outstanding peach tree cultivar hardy in Berkshire County.  This tree was originally grown from seed by Margery Wilde, many years ago, of High Lawn Farm in Lenox.  The tree produces very tasty and juicy fruit without spraying, is fully hardy and ripens in early September. The project will deal with its historical significance, its need for preservation and its sustainability.  Workshops, programs, field trips will be some of the educational tools used. You will hear more about this at the Gardner's Breakfast and will be asked to approve the project. 

FEBRUARY 2009

Hort Short...Arm Chair Gardening

January is a great time to snuggle down on the couch with your seed catalogs for Spring planting.
The good ones:
- FEDCO SEEDS or FEDCO TREES for a great selection of heirloom apple trees for bare root Spring planting
-ST. LAWRENCE NURSERIES trees@sln.pots.dam.ny.us  another great resource for very hardy fruit trees... they come small, bareroot but are super hardy and catch up fast!
-JOHNNIES  (tel.: 1-877-564-6697) of course is the king of seeds for your vegetable garden but good also for flowers and herbs.
Finally a favorite for the budget conscious:
-PINETREE pinetree@superseeds.com they sell wonderful mini-packs for $0.95 a real bargain and plenty of seeds for the average family garden. 
On the Houseplant front:

Spider mites become problematic by this time so you can compliment your pest control regime by spraying Listerine on the plants to control spider mites. Also a weekly shower helps. Just put the whole pot in the shower for 3-4 minutes with warn water. Make sure that the underside of leaves is washed because that is the favorite hiding place for the little mites.                                        

JANUARY  2009

Hort Short...Got the Winter Blues?
Turn your Blues into GREENS ...Make a garden and enter the Go GREEN flower Show!

Gardens (Classes 27-29)
Classes 27-29   TERRARIUMS AND CONTAINER GARDENS (No larger than 16" diameter- Key Card Required for Plant Identification and location in the container)
27.       Terrarium (2 week plant ownership)
28.       Container Garden (3 month ownership)
29.       Spring Garden (2 week plant ownership)

NOVEMBER 2008

HORT SHORT...How to Make a Cornucopia
1) At a craft shop, purchase a ready-to-fill cornucopia.
2) Collect autumn leaves and place on a tray.
3) Fill the cornucopia with straw or raffia as filler to support the fruit/vegetables and place on top of tray.
4) Add the gourds, pomegranates, small apples, mini pumpkins, peppers, artichokes and dried ears of Indian corn and allow them to spill out over fall leaves.
5) Cover with a variety of nuts and hardy berries (ie. cranberries) to fill in the spaces.
6) Lastly, tuck in more colorful leaves in the cornucopia   ..and Voila!

2) What meat was probably NOT on the Pilgrims menu?
a) Beef
b) Fish
c)Lobster
d) Fowl
e) Venison
Happy Thanksgiving!
Jeanie Fenn
Answer:  1-d,  2

OCTOBER  2008

COLORFUL FALL FOLIAGE IN A PERENNIAL GARDEN 
A major challenge in a perennial garden is not only to have a selection of plants with blossoms and foliage that fit in with the color scheme and design of your garden, but also whose foliage holds up well throughout the three seasons and after the blossoms have gone.   As we enter the fall season, here are some suggestions of perennials whose foliage does just that and turns beautiful shades of orange/red or pink/red in the Fall.
PEONY – ‘Karl Rosenfeld’  (deep crimson blossoms)
EVENING PRIMROSE, sun drops - Oenothera Fruticosa (yellow blossoms).  (The stalks of some of the other Evening primroses, including those with light pink or white blossoms, are not as rigid, nor are their leaves as colorful as this one in the Fall).
JAPANESE ANEMONE – either  ‘Robustissima’ with delicate pink blossoms or ‘Honorine Jobert’ with white blossoms.  
AZALEA – “Royal Pink’ (‘May Queen’).  (A shrub with delicate pink flowers).

SEPTEMBER  2008

Time to think about fall bulb planting!  We tend to overlook what Elizabeth Lawrence called “the little bulbs”. Plant 25 to 50 of scilla siberica, chionodoxa (Glory of the Snow) and /or Muscari  (grape hyacinths) in  a spot where you don’t have to mow too early and you will be greeted next April or May with a small ocean or drift of brilliant blue, blue and white, or violet blue respectively. All three of these will spread out and seed themselves in years to come as long as you plant them in reasonably good soil where the sun shines in spring.   They are inexpensive and require only the initial effort of getting them in the ground.  And they require a minimum of digging as they need only 3-4 inches of soil above them.

AUGUST  2008

Kooky Spooky
Make plans to enter your potted plants in Kooky Spooky Flower Show at Ventfort Hall on October 30-Nov 2, 2009.  Bring your Creepy Crawly Trained Plants, your Scary and Frightening Cacti, and all your Happy Halloween Plants to a Horticulture Halloween Happening Fun Time!
GCA Club Flower Show

JULY  2008

LOOK OUT! There coming….
New Invasive Species
Virburnum Leaf Beetle
Red Lily Beetle
Information on the  VIRBURNUM LEAF BEETLE may be found at:http://massnrc.org/pests/pestFAQsheets/viburnumleaf.html
Look here for information on the RED LILY BEETLE
http://shand.saskpower.com/shand/articles/doc20.shtml

JUNE  2008

GREAT GARDEN PERENNIALS
More info available at:    http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/gardening/
The workhorses of a great garden are perennials — those stalwarts like daylilies, peonies, iris and astilbe that come back year after year. You can save a lot of money by sowing perennials from seed rather than
putting in young plants bought at a nursery. Most perennials take a couple of years to get established, especially when started from seed. But these plants below will bloom the first season: Sow the seed in early spring and enjoy the rewards this summer!
Maltese cross. Butterflies adore this plant. The fiery flowers of maltese cross (Lychnis chalcedonica) appear in early summer. Sow in a sunny location in most, well-drained soil. Deadhead to prolong bloom. USDA Zones 3-10. Rose campion (Lychnis coronaria) also blooms the first year.
Tickseed coreopsis. A native perennial wildflower, tickseed coreopsis thrives where soils are dry to average. This coreopsis typically blooms in late spring to early summer, but deadheading will prolong flowering. 'Baby Sun' and 'Sunray' are compact varieties that don't sprawl like the species does. 'Sunfire' and 'Sternthaler' bloom until frost. USDA Zones 3-8
Verbascum (mullein) is another favorite for the perennial garden. Like many other varieties, 'Southern Charm' blooms the first year after seeding. In following years, expect bloom in the spring, a dormant period in summer where summers are hot, and a re-bloom in the later summer and fall. A short-lived perennial, verbascum typically lives three years or maybe a bit more, and many types (but not 'Southern Charm') reseed. Tolerates poor, dry soil and prefers neutral to alkaline conditions.                                    

MAY  2008

NEVER UNDER ESTIMATE THE POWER OF PLANTS
We have been told that frontiersmen and hunters in the prairies of the Mississippi Valley discovered a sunflower plant, Silphium laciniatum, whose leaves accurately indicate the points of a compass.Some plants, unable to find nitrogen in swampy land, obtain it by devouring living creatures.  There are more than five hundred varieties of carnivorous plants, eating any kind of meat from insect to beef, using endlessly cunning methods to capture their prey, from tentacles to sticky hairs to funnel-like traps.  The tentacles of carnivorous plants are not only mouths but stomachs raised on poles with which to seize and eat their prey, to digest both meat and blood and leave noting but a skeleton.  or so it says in "The Secret Life of Plants" by Tompkins and Bird... Jeanie Fenn

APRIL  2008

DAFFODILS
According to Jennifer Brown, American Daffodil Society (ADS) Judge, “daffodil” and “narcissus” are used interchangeably, daffodil being the English name and narcissus the botanical name.  In England they are affectionately called “daffydowndillies.” The ADS, like England’s Royal Daffodil Society, classifies daffodils into 13 divisions, principally by the characteristics of each cultivar’s corona (cup) and perianth segments (petals).  “Jonquils” are technically the daffodils of Division 7 only, the Jonquilla and Apodanthus Daffodil Cultivars.  They are characterized by having one to five flowers to a stem; perianth segments spreading or reflexed, flowers usually fragrant.  Within each division, each cultivar is also given a specific color code.  For example, 1 W-Y is a trumpet daffodil with white petals and yellow trumpet; 2Y-YYO is a large cupped daffodil, all yellow except for an orange rim.

Daffodils are among the oldest of cultivated plants.  They are thought to have originated in Spain and Portugal but spread themselves around the Mediterranean in prehistoric times.  Tazetta daffodils (Division 8) were brought by man to China and Japan.  By the 1400s Englishmen described 24 different daffodils; by 1600s there were more than 90.  Daffodils were brought to the Americas by Spanish conquistadores.  Today worldwide, there are 26, 000 named varieties of which 2000 are currently available. For more info, contact the ADS at www.daffodilusa.org
Jacqueiline Connell

MARCH  2008

PROPAGATING SUCCULENTS
When a succulent plant begins to grow tall and lanky… you have a couple of options. You can remove the lower leaves and plant it deeper or you can do what I did. I first removed the lower leaves and set them aside to dry for about three days in bright (but indirect) light. The reason we do this is because we have to let the cuts callous over to prevent rot. The second thing I did was cut off the top and also set it aside to dry for three days. What you're left with is just the "stump" of the original plant but even that you should keep because it will send out new leaves and plants that you can cut off and also root later.
After the three days you can simply set your leaf cuttings on a pot of soil and wait for them to root. The top portion that you removed can also be inserted into soil and rooted. The "stump" we created should be kept somewhere shady and not watered much if at all until new growth appears.  Voila!  New Plants!
MaryEllen O'Brien

FEBRUARY  2008

DORMANT CARE OF DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS!
As the plants go dormant, it is a good time to remove dead branches, and collect fallen leaves to reduce over wintering inoculum (the resting structures of leaf spot, blight and canker fungi).  Remove this debris so fewer of these disease fungi will be present in the area to initiate infections next spring.  In addition, if leaf spots and blights are recurring, unsightly problems, resistant varieties, or other plants better adapted to the site may be available to replace them. Reported by Dan Gilman of the UMass Ext. Service.
Thanks,
Carolyn King 

JANUARY 2008

START DREAMING OF SPRING!
I’m huddled inside at 4 degrees below zero with thoughts of how to improve our gardens and surrounding woods for 2008.  One possibility that intrigues me was reinforced by Claire Sawyers of the Scott Arboretum.  She suggests that we cultivate “a sense of the wild” by celebrating imperfection.  What can we add to reflect the essence of the location of our garden and create a sense of the wild?  One thing that comes to mind is the beauty of the irregularity of the base of trees and tree stumps.  Around our house we have kept maple and black locust tree stumps.  The stumps themselves are beautiful, new trees have grown out of them, and we have enhanced their beauty with small additions of native plants that self seed.  Ferns and Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica) are two plants that do well around trees and tree stumps and they enhance the beautiful texture of tree bark. What might you add to your garden to enhance and celebrate the wild beauty of an imperfect tree stump?
Best regards and Happy New Year,
Helen Davies

DECEMBER 2007

MAKE YOUR SALT WORTH IT!
As we all know, the deicing salt we use in the winter is harmful to soil and plants, and corrosive to roads and walkways.  And it is only effective above about 15 degrees F. What are the alternatives? Calcium, potassium, and magnesium chloride are effective to -5 degrees F or lower, but are much more expensive.   And while they are somewhat less toxic to plants, they will corrode concrete and metals.  General fertilizers    are often recommended for ice control, but they are only effective in large amounts that may damage plants.  Sand and granular kitty litter don’t melt ice and snow, but they can be used for traction.  Fifty pounds of sand mixed with one pound of salt is effective and less damaging to plants and soil.  Liquid deicers are generally more effective than dry ones.  You can make your own by dissolving one part magnesium chloride in two parts water.  Common sense says to use the smallest amount of the least damaging materials, and use them when they will be the most effective.  The best time to apply is after the snow/ice event has finished and the shoveling is done.  A handful per square yard is all that is needed (if you can feel salt crunching under your feet, that’s too much!).  If you only need traction, apply a thin layer of sand.  And pay attention to the temperature, it can be just too darned cold for the deicers to work!                

NOVEMBER 2007
DAHLIA STORAGE
Tubers should be kept in the dark at a steady, cool temperature so they stay firm without rotting, shriveling or sprouting prematurely. The storage place should be dry and safely above freezing but below 50 degrees. Aim for 40 to 45 degrees. An old fashioned root cellar is perfect. Consider an unheated basement, attic, crawl space, attached garage or even a refrigerator.  Tubers may be packed in a plastic bag with holes punched in it, or in a loosely closed plastic bag, or in a closed cardboard box or paper bag. Surround the tubers with milled sphagnum peat moss, dry shavings, coarse sand, coarse vermiculite, or newspaper to both insulate and separate them. The tubers should not touch each other. They must be kept dark.  Check the tubers periodically during storage. If they begin to shrivel, mist with a little tepid water. If there is condensation, allow to air dry a bit. Remove any rotting tubers. Most problems seem to be related to storing damaged tubers which are prone to rot, and to unsuitable storage temperature. Check the temperature range inside the storage container with a min-max thermometer.

OCTOBER 2007
HORT SHORTS...UPRIGHT PAPERWHITES
Cocktail time for bulbs!  This tip keeps your blooming paperwhites from keeling over and looking sad, by stunting their growth (but not their blossoms) with alcohol.  Plant the bulbs amid pebbles, aquarium gravel or whatever material you usually use.  Add water until it touches the bottom of the bulbs.  After about a week, when the roots begin to grow and the green shoots one or two inches tall, pour off the water.  This is a bit tricky, so pour over a sieve or colander to catch any stones that fall out.  Replace the water with water to which you have added alcohol: the solution should be one part alcohol to 7 parts water if you use gin (40% distilled spirit), but rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol, 70% distilled spirit) is much cheaper and it should be used in a ratio of 1 part alcohol to 10 or 11 parts water. Continue to use the water/alcohol solution for the duration of the bulbs' blooming cycle. 

SEPTEMBER 2007
GARLIC SEASON
Plant garlic NOW for harvest next summer. Purchase garlic sold specifically for planting, or buy organic garlic. Commercial, non-organic, supermarket garlic may have been treated to inhibit sprouting. Break the garlic head into individual cloves, keeping the largest ones for planting. Use the small cloves for cooking.  Plant cloves about 3 inches apart with the pointed side up. Try some different varieties to see which you prefer. Mulch the bed well with straw.  Harvest next summer.

AUGUST 2007
BEES AND BUGS
Even More Bugs...What a great motif for the BBG flower show! They sparked our imagination and our attention to this amazing group of animals.  Whether you love them or loathe them they are here to stay, in our homes and in our gardens.  After all, the flowers bloom for them, not for us. I find them all endlessly fascinating, their various forms, their life cycles and life styles, their social organization, even their influence on human history. My longtime favorites are the bees.  How did they learn so much math and science?  They use the beautiful hexagon for their building, the nearest thing to the strong circle which will tesselate. No waste space, no collapse. We know now that the honeybees prefer flowers with radial symmetry, the daisy and sunflower, while the bumblebees prefer bilateral symmetry, the snapdragon and orchid.  Haven't you ever seen one bumbling down inside a foxglove?  The wonder and questions about the "wanton queens" has led to recent research about their promiscuity, mating with forty or more males on their nuptial flight.  In this way they improve the gene pool in the hive, leading to stronger structures, more productive foraging, and longer life for the hive.  They even "understand" genetics. Awesome!  No wonder honey is so seductive!

JULY 2007
VOLES AND MOLES
Have the voles, moles and mice made a better underground subway system in your garden than the NY Transit Authority ever envisioned?   A friend passed this tid-bit along to me and it really works….MOUSE TRAPS WITH PEANUT BUTTER!

JUNE 2007
TOMATO HORNWORM
The next time you smile at the sweet little hummingbird hovering in your garden, take a closer look.  You just might be looking at a Hawk Moth (aka Sphinx Moth or Hornworm.) Unfortunately, these charming creatures lay eggs that develop into Tomato Hornworms - large, green caterpillars that cling to the underside of leaves.  They are virtually impossible to see, and will chew through your tomato, eggplant, potato, and pepper plants before you even know they are there.    So how do you prevent these little guys from devouring your veggies?  Check the ground beneath your plants.  If you see tiny droppings, you’ve got hornworms.  Examine the plant carefully, and you will hopefully find the culprits.   What you do to them is up to you.  Happy gardening.

MAY 2007
DAHLIAS
For better blooming Dahlias…Soak the tubers in a solution of Peter’s for one hour before planting.

APRIL 2007
BIRDS
If Darwin found penguins had evolved to survive at the equator in the Galapagos (found no where else except the poles)...why then has the blue-footed boobie not adopted to thrive in the Berkshires?? Well, just a thought to get your attention! ...But while watching for the signs of spring, and smelling the signs of spring, what about listening for the songs of spring.  The birds are plentiful and their songs are numerous, and confusing you say?...no!.. It’s really very easy to identify birds by their song.. Behold, it is all in the rhythm.   Many of you already know the white throated sparrow sounds like "Old Sam Peabody, Peabody, Peabody" and the Carolina wren sounds like "teakettle, teakettle, teakettle". What about the Barred Owl?...he sounds like "Who cooks for you, who cooks for you-all". I love the American Goldfinch.. His is "po-ta-to chip, po-ta-to chip"! One of the easier ones is the red-eyed vireo.  His song is "Here am I, where are you?" His is easy for one simple reason..  He has been known to sing it up to 22,197 times  in one day from sunrise to sunset.  (No doubt the chap counting wasn't gardening that day)  If there is a whinny in your garden, it may be a robin...  and for those who want something really easy, listen for "Chicadee-dee-dee" and "Phoebe" and "Killdeer".   They come as advertised!  Enjoy your spring labors!

MARCH 2007
PLANT SALE
Loosing patience with that plant that won’t bloom for you?Give someone else the chance and contribute it to the June Plant Sale.Do you have too many pups and want to give them to a nice home?Pot up your Bromeliad pups for the June Plant Sale.Do you have a lot of cuttings rooting in water?  It seemed like a good idea at the time…but what to do with them now? HINT: The June Plant Sale.Are you an impulsive buyer?  It looked great at the nursery center, but when you got it home, it didn’t fit into your garden design – Put it up for adoption at the June Plant Sale.

FEBRUARY 2007
CONTAINER GARDENING
If you like container gardening (and who doesn't?) why not do a window box-without a window. An abundant box on the top rail of a porch or deck railing can add another dimension to that area, and enhance your relaxing time.  Some tips: securely brace the box to keep it from tipping, determine the light (sun/shade) before choosing plants, have well drained soil, water and feed regularly, groom as needed.  More spectacular if only two or three varieties;  big leaves and trailing habits make for a showy effect.  And surely less strenuous than a long border!  

JANUARY 2007
AMARYLLIS
Caring for your Hippeastrum (Amaryllis):  to have it re-bloom, according to the Berkshire Botanical Garden: While the plant blooms, keep it cool but in bright light to prolong blooming. Water thoroughly with tepid water, then allow the surface to dry out before the next watering. After the flowers have gone, continue watering and feed lightly once a month.  When the weather warms up, set the pot outside in full sun. Continue watering and feeding at the same rate until the middle of August.  When frost threatens, move the plant inside to a sunny window.  Although the plant may look bedraggled, and the leaves may start to die, do not allow the plant to dry out.  New flower spikes will start to appear about the end of January.
The trick to making your Hippeastrum flower repeatedly is to encourage the plant to produce as much foliage as possible, as the leaves produce food for the plant through photosynthesis.